Ein Schnittmusterbuch aus dem 17.Jahrhundert

Ein Schnittmusterbuch aus dem 17.Jahrhundert
Gustav von Bezold (Autor/in)
 PDF
DOI: https://doi.org/10.11588/mignm.1898.0.27556
Identifier (Dateien)URN: http://nbn-resolving.de/urn:nbn:de:bsz:16-mignm-275566 (PDF)
2016-02-03
Ausgabe 1898: Mitteilungen aus dem Germanischen Nationalmuseum
Beitragende/r oder Sponsor GNM

These appear to be hand drawn copies of the original.

This book also appears in another article, as part of a conference: HISTORISCHE MODELLE – KUNSTWERKE, MEDIEN, VISIONEN, though this preview of the publication doesn’t appear to be linked.https://www.gnm.de/fileadmin/editorCMS/publikation/pdf/publikation167_pdf1.pdf

page 81:

23 Meisterstückbuch des Schneiderhandwerks Nittenau, 17. Jahrhundert
Handschrift, 6 Bl., Papier, Feder, Tinte, geschlossen H. 23 cm, B. 17 cm, aufgeschlagen fol. 5v/6r: Mantel und Wams der Bürgersfrau, Bauernrock, Kleid der Bauernbraut

I have roughly translated this and tried to make it easier to read:

23 Meisterstückbuch des Schneiderhandwerks Nittenau, 17th century Manuscript, 6 sheets, paper, quill, ink, closed H. 23 cm, W 17 cm, opened fol. 5v / 6r: coat and jerkin of the citizen woman, peasant skirt, dress of the farmer bride HA, WK Nittenau, tailor 1682 Cross-sectional drawings are “models” of garments.

Early examples can be found in the masterpiece books of the tailoring industry from the 16th and 17th centuries with exam papers to obtain the master’s degree.

In a hierarchical hierarchy, they show greatly reduced cuts of ecclesiastical robes, followed by men’s and women’s clothing for nobility, citizens, peasants and servants.

Inscriptions name the garments and their individual parts as well as dimensions, materials and quantities. The cuts are positioned on webs in the respective fabric widths and also served as a guide to economic trimming. For cutting one used original sized cuts.

The tailor constructed them according to the customer measurements taken with paper strips with Elle and compass and transferred them with chalk or soap on the fabric.

In addition, patterns of linen were in use, and at the latest in the late 17th century, one worked already with paper cuts.

The pattern book of the tailors of Nittenau (Upper Palatinate) was created when they were asked to set their masterpieces. They asked for the help of the tailors from the Bruck, seven kilometers away, who told them their own masterpieces in the booklet with the inscription “SchneiderInnung / Nittenau” by another hand.

The year “1600” was later corrected to “1608” on the title, another dating at the end of the dedication on the last page is no longer clearly legible (16 [00 ligiert?] 2). The clothes on display date back to the first half of the 17th century.

The andwerk books are important sources of historical clothing research, however, the long-term masterpieces often lagged behind the current fashions.

The following references that discuss this document are in their original language so as to be able to track them

-JZS Lit.: Gustav von Bezold: Ein schnittmusterbuch aus dem 17. Jahrhundert. In: Mitteilungen aus dem Germanischen Nationalmuseum 1898,

-Ingeborg Petrascheck-Heim: Das Schnittbuch aus Bregenz 1660. In: Jahrbuch des Vorarlberger, Landesmuseumsvereins 1972. Bregenz 1975, S. 77–134.

– Johannes Pietsch: Das Schneiderhandwerk im 17. Jahrhundert. In: Johannes Pietsch, Karen Stolleis: Kölner Patrizier- und Bürgerkleidung des 17. Jahrhunderts. Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen
Landesmuseum Darmstadt (Riggisberger Berichte 15). Riggisberg
2008, S. 59–125, bes. 66–68.