1682: Bruck, Schnittmusterbuch

Ein Schnittmusterbuch aus dem 17.Jahrhundert

Ein Schnittmusterbuch aus dem 17.Jahrhundert
Gustav von Bezold (Autor/in)
 PDF
DOI: https://doi.org/10.11588/mignm.1898.0.27556
Identifier (Dateien)URN: http://nbn-resolving.de/urn:nbn:de:bsz:16-mignm-275566 (PDF)
2016-02-03
Ausgabe 1898: Mitteilungen aus dem Germanischen Nationalmuseum
Beitragende/r oder Sponsor GNM

These appear to be hand drawn copies of the original.

This book also appears in another article, as part of a conference: HISTORISCHE MODELLE – KUNSTWERKE, MEDIEN, VISIONEN, though this preview of the publication doesn’t appear to be linked.https://www.gnm.de/fileadmin/editorCMS/publikation/pdf/publikation167_pdf1.pdf

page 81:

23 Meisterstückbuch des Schneiderhandwerks Nittenau, 17. Jahrhundert
Handschrift, 6 Bl., Papier, Feder, Tinte, geschlossen H. 23 cm, B. 17 cm, aufgeschlagen fol. 5v/6r: Mantel und Wams der Bürgersfrau, Bauernrock, Kleid der Bauernbraut

I have roughly translated this and tried to make it easier to read:

23 Meisterstückbuch des Schneiderhandwerks Nittenau, 17th century Manuscript, 6 sheets, paper, quill, ink, closed H. 23 cm, W 17 cm, opened fol. 5v / 6r: coat and jerkin of the citizen woman, peasant skirt, dress of the farmer bride HA, WK Nittenau, tailor 1682 Cross-sectional drawings are “models” of garments.

Early examples can be found in the masterpiece books of the tailoring industry from the 16th and 17th centuries with exam papers to obtain the master’s degree.

In a hierarchical hierarchy, they show greatly reduced cuts of ecclesiastical robes, followed by men’s and women’s clothing for nobility, citizens, peasants and servants.

Inscriptions name the garments and their individual parts as well as dimensions, materials and quantities. The cuts are positioned on webs in the respective fabric widths and also served as a guide to economic trimming. For cutting one used original sized cuts.

The tailor constructed them according to the customer measurements taken with paper strips with Elle and compass and transferred them with chalk or soap on the fabric.

In addition, patterns of linen were in use, and at the latest in the late 17th century, one worked already with paper cuts.

The pattern book of the tailors of Nittenau (Upper Palatinate) was created when they were asked to set their masterpieces. They asked for the help of the tailors from the Bruck, seven kilometers away, who told them their own masterpieces in the booklet with the inscription “SchneiderInnung / Nittenau” by another hand.

The year “1600” was later corrected to “1608” on the title, another dating at the end of the dedication on the last page is no longer clearly legible (16 [00 ligiert?] 2). The clothes on display date back to the first half of the 17th century.

The andwerk books are important sources of historical clothing research, however, the long-term masterpieces often lagged behind the current fashions.

The following references that discuss this document are in their original language so as to be able to track them

-JZS Lit.: Gustav von Bezold: Ein schnittmusterbuch aus dem 17. Jahrhundert. In: Mitteilungen aus dem Germanischen Nationalmuseum 1898,

-Ingeborg Petrascheck-Heim: Das Schnittbuch aus Bregenz 1660. In: Jahrbuch des Vorarlberger, Landesmuseumsvereins 1972. Bregenz 1975, S. 77–134.

– Johannes Pietsch: Das Schneiderhandwerk im 17. Jahrhundert. In: Johannes Pietsch, Karen Stolleis: Kölner Patrizier- und Bürgerkleidung des 17. Jahrhunderts. Die Kostümsammlung Hüpsch im Hessischen
Landesmuseum Darmstadt (Riggisberger Berichte 15). Riggisberg
2008, S. 59–125, bes. 66–68.

1590 (?): Schneidermusterbuch (Enns)

Schneidermusterbuch: Käysserliche Freyhaitten d schneyder

http://www.smb-digital.de/eMuseumPlus?service=ExternalInterface&module=collection&moduleFunction=search
(then search for ” Schneidermusterbuch: Käysserliche Freyhaitten d schneyder “)

Schneidermusterbuch: Käysserliche Freyhaitten d schneyder […]
Buch
Unbekannter Künstler, Herstellung, Zeichner
1590
Herstellungsort: Enns (Stadt)
Federzeichnung
Blattmaß: 20,5 x 15,8 cm
Ident.Nr. 14136958
Sammlung: Kunstbibliothek | Sammlung Modebild
© Foto: Kunstbibliothek der Staatlichen Museen zu Berlin – Preußischer Kulturbesitz
Fotograf/in: Dietmar Katz

Teil einer Handschrift aus 55 handgeschr. Bl. (inkl. Titel) mit 44 Schnittmustern und 20 meist kolor. Kostümfigurinen in Federzeichnung,
Einband aus Pergamenthandschrift

While there is no persistent url for the full collection the entire book is freely available on the Staatliche Muzeen zu Berlin site.

Of particular interest is the use of dotted lines at the waist of gowns assumed to be full length- my observation of dotted lines in other tailors manuals is that it could be an optional cutting line ( body seams of Jubon) or folds (on a few jubon sleeves.) It is of interest th

This book is however perhaps the easiest to “read” of all the extant manuals of this era due to the use of lines to illustrate trimmings and of the use of a colour wash for waste fabric.

The entire book book has also been scanned, transcribed and translated as part of: Drei Schnittbücher Three Austrian Master Tailor Books of the 16th Century

Author: Katherine Barich; Marion McNealy
Publisher: Kennewick Nadel und Faden Press 2015
Edition/Format: Print book : EnglishView all editions and formats

1545- 1568: Nidermayr, Meisterstückbüch

Die Meisterstückbücher des Schneiderhandwerks in Innsbruck

Ingeborg Petrascheck-Heim
© Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum, Innsbruck download under www.biologiezentrum.at
https://www.zobodat.at/pdf/VeroeffFerd_50_0159-0218.pdf

This very important article includes a few scans of several tailor books including: Nidermayr, 1545, Innsbruck, Tiroler Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum F.B. 4240

The scans are cited as “aus der Schneider Mattery von 1566.” This date appears on one of the plates but this section is dated as 1568 in Drei Schnittbücher.

The entire book book has been scanned, transcribed and translated as part of Drei Schnittbücher Three Austrian Master Tailor Books of the 16th Century

Author: Katherine Barich; Marion McNealy
Publisher: Kennewick Nadel und Faden Press 2015
Edition/Format: Print book : EnglishView all editions and formats

1540s (?): Schuste, Meisterstückbuch

Meisterstückbuch der Schneiderzunft zu Schwabach gefertigt von Joh. Georg Schuster

http://www.digishelf.de/objekt/77488794X/1/
Structure type: Monograph
Collection:Kunstbibliothek Berlin
URN:urn:nbn:de:gbv:601-3222
Title:Meisterstückbuch der Schneiderzunft zu Schwabach gefertigt von Joh. Georg Schuster
Publicationplace:Berlin
Publisher:null
Ausgabebezeichnung:[Electronic ed.]
Size:2°
Persistente Url:http://www.digishelf.de/piresolver?id=77488794X
Structure type:Cover
Collection:Kunstbibliothek Berlin

Completely fabulous full scan.

It appears Karl Kohler used this book in his History of Costume as a basis for some of his text and pattern diagrams. Compare the following to the above image.