Eyn Neue Kunstlichbuch
A novel and practical method of measures and markings
Dealing with all that concern the tailor in order to cut clothes of many types
for all the garments required of the profession; and many secret and curious
facts illuminating the art of the tailor.
While I set out to create this book I was beset by so many ideas and in many different ways that I was caused to stop and start many times so as to make sure my words would be of sense to my dear reader. I had hoped to produce a modest tome of little weight and worth that it be of small cost to any person and waste not the time nor work of the printer. I have tired of this work many times, however the prospect of not completing this work so distraught me that I persevered through great turmoil of heart and mind.
I have set this work out in several parts. The order of these parts are to allow both the novice and experienced tailor the ability to view or ignore according to their needs.
Notes on the units of measure
While it has become the fashion to hide true measures through signs and symbols and the changing units across the kingdoms of the Earth, I have chosen to let the reader choose their own unit of measures. The patterns are at 1/5th and 1/10th scale- thus these are easily made up in either imperial or metric systems.
We are fortuitous that most fabrics are now woven in widths that must be displayed when purchasing. This allows us to plan in advance how much fabric to purchase before we set foot in the haberdashers world.
As such I have on occasion indicated by means of close dotted lines to indicate the join of fabric folded to 75cm/30 inches. This join may be omitted however it corresponds well to the unit of measure known as a baras and is close to the ell.
Notes on Construction
I have included advice on stitches to use and how to put together the patterns. Most tailors learn these skills while still a child and so are passed by spoken word at an early age. I hope not to insult the reader’s understanding.
I have set these instructions aside in a second volume.
Notes on the Patterns
The patterns follow a logical order of progress from the simplest to the most complex. I start with the shapes unaltered by limitations of fabric width before showing the placement of angled seams as so often desired.
I start with the skirts as these require the most amount of fabric but least degree of fussiness in fit. These patterns may be endlessly blended. Then follows the sleeves and finally the bodices.