1884 The Original Emerican Lady Tailor System

The original American lady tailor system ..

by Gartland, Elizbeth, Mrs. [from old catalog]
Publication date 1884
Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher [Philadelphia
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English

Another book with a degree of advice that is very much of the era. Many of these books were intended for teaching and so lessons cover many other aspects than cut and fit. These other sections are of interest to those studying gender roles in history and those who study the history of health advice.

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1921 The New Dressmaker

The new dressmaker;

with complete and fully illustrated instructions on every point connected with sewing, dressmaking and tailoring, from the actual stitches to the cutting, making, altering, mending, and cleaning of clothes for ladies, misses, girls, children, infants, men and boys
by Butterick Publishing Company
Publication date 1921
Topics Dressmaking, Sewing
Publisher New York [etc.] The Butterick Publishing Co
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English

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1897 Mrs Herbert’s Scientific System

Mrs. Herbert’s scientific system of dress cutting,

for self-instruction by Herbert, Charles Mrs. [from old catalog]
Publication date 1897
Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher New York, The Dressmakers’ trade school
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English

Very nice instructions to create a draft with variations of examples of how to use it.

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1889 Mme Veitch-Simonds Drapery System

Mme. Veitch-Simonds’ drapery system chart ..

by Simonds, Annie Maria (Veitch), Mrs., 1858- [from old catalog]
Publication date 1889
Topics Dressmaking. [from old catalog]
Publisher Milwaukee, Cramer, Aikens & Cramer, engravers & printers
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English

No diagrams, very nice line art of designs. This book is really intended for those familiar with draping and drafting.

Having reviewed several centuries worth of pattern diagrams this book is correct in that skirts tended to be less precisely measured than body garments but that is the nature of skirts through history. Until the 1860s there was not a lot of variation in skirts in each era/style. Most cutting books are dedicated to best use of fabric and so the careful planning is channeled into that. The creative piecing to make most use of fabric, with enough flexibility to adapt to the amount of fabric supplied.

Once you start adding shaped drapery and shaped trimming, rather than strips of fabric tapered or plain, the need for accurate cut to a dedicated shape come in.

By 1889 skirts had gone through extreme transformation. While based on a couple of very plain bases there could be pleats all around or cut and shaped to full one shape on one side, drapery was shaped and symmetric.

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1885 The International Encyclopedia

The international encyclopedia of scientific tailor principles,

for all kinds and styles of garment-making … Also designing … embroidery, crocheting, knitting, worsted work, fancy and artistic needle work ..
by Christner, D. C
Publication date 1885
Topics Dressmaking, Tailoring, Fancy work
Publisher Philadelphia [S.M. Larzelere, printer]
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English

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1890 Instruction Book for the Kellog French Tailor System

Instruction book for the Kellogg French tailor system

for cutting every description of ladies’ garments ..
by Kellogg, F. J., Mrs. [from old catalog]
Publication date 1890
Topics Dressmaking
Publisher [Battle Creek, Mich.]
Collection library_of_congress; americana
Digitizing sponsor Sloan Foundation
Contributor The Library of Congress
Language English

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