Gelderland- Códice de trajes
DER ADEL IM GELERLAND (nobility of Gelderland)
The figures of Gelderland are also extraordinary. Again we have a difference in status, but also two very distinct styles. William of Cleves inherited the region late 1530s, which reflected the wishes of many, however it was not with the Emperor’s permission and he issued a warning to all who would align with Cleves.
The Emperor himself traveled with his army to Gelderland and the Duchy was given up by 1543, Sternsee most likely knew of this and so this depiction of the two styles of clothing (Lowlands and North Rhine) is a quite remarkable window into a narrow timeframe.
The flattened and broad cap with narrow frame is very closely associated with both Cleves and Cologne, as is the linen headdress featuring the same frame. The French hood is seen in Netherlandish dress.
The red on blue colour is not common but can be found on dress of the North Rhine. Blue in general is a colour found in many portraits of women of Cologne
The two figures in red and blue appear to show the skirt opening as being off centre, however this is more likely to be an overlapped opening which can be found on portraits on Anne herself and the majority of portraits of women of Koeln. This overlapping skirt feature can be seen on at least one full length painting outside of the region- Christoph AMBERGER, Portrait of a Woman, 1525 (KHM). The skirts are round without a train, while the figure in black has a trained gown similar to those worn in the Netherlands.
DIE BURGERIN IM GELERLAND (citizens of Gelderland)
All sleeves, nobility and citizens alike, are fitted at the upper arm with the full hanging lower section turned back to reveal the lining. This is fitted closely around the upper arm in all but one of the figures.
There are fitted sleeves of rich cloth that cover the forearms of all figures.
The linen headdresses are further distinguished with the Netherlandish styled figure wearing a veil that is rolled in to narrow points, while the Germanic style figure has a veil that is folded and falls in wider tapering points.
All figures appear to wear rich silk fabrics- velvet and damask are clearly shown. Very plush linings to all the sleeves- some velvet some fur.
Damask is a material found on the outside and as sleeve linings in multiple portraits.